THE BOLDEST FASHION STATEMENTS IN PROTEST HISTORY: A SERIES: WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK'S WAR ON RACISM

“Using my voice to make people think more or less feels like an obligation”

He’s been in the fashion industry since the 80s. Walter Van Beirendock is a Belgium designer best known for his radical ways, but his approach does not intentionally shock his audiences. All his designs, even up to the point of his controversial ‘Crossed Crocodiles Growl’ collection, have been created spontaneously and inspired by events throughout the world and his life.

‘Crossed Crocodiles Growl’ sounds a lot like a book title, but it was the carefully curated title of Van Beirendonck’s 2014 Fall collection. Crossed crocodiles are in fact a symbol of unity in diversity in specific parts of Africa. Starting from the title of the collection, he brought a humanist, ‘we’re-all-in-this-together’ message, taking a stand against racism. His models marched the runway in pastel army helmets, college stripes and protection gear. A few of the street recruited models sported (fellow collaborative milliner designer) Stephen Jones’ huge, feathered Native American headdresses painted with a “Stop Racism” message in Arabic, Russian and English. Many models wearing such pieces were uncommonly fresh-faced, even by fashion standards. This was more of a sophisticated blend of message and messenger, but in keeping with the realness of the designer’s work, there were some more toned-down messages throughout the show like the suspicion he was acknowledging that it is categorially the young who make up the armies who fight, kill and die for their countries.

He stated that after his most shocking show to date, he was sent thank-you letters and notes from indigenous leaders. “I always try to handle ethnic heritage as carefully as possible, but my statements were aimed at everyone, in every place and time”.

To anyone who ever believed that no one in the broad fashion industry was capable of expressing their beliefs in such a respectable way has clearly never encountered Walter Van Beirendonck’s work.

D.Evans

References:

http://official-waltervanbeirendonck.tumblr.com/post/99992169698/glamcult-interview-walter-van-beirendonck

THE BOLDEST FASHION STATEMENTS IN PROTEST HISTORY: A SERIES: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD'S CLIMATE REVOLUTION

“Climate revolution is the ultimate revolution; if we don’t win that, there won’t be many of us left.”

Time to talk about one of the most iconic creatives out there; Vivienne Westwood. She speaks her mind and supports causes she believes in and it’s no secret that she is an avid supporter of the environment. She first launched her 'Climate Revolution' campaign back in 2012, where her message for buyers and the industry was [to] “Buy less, choose well, make it last. Even better, don’t buy anything.” This was controversial as the fashion industry is the second most wasteful and environmentally damaging industry out there (only beaten by the oil industry) and for one of the most respected designers to take a stand against fast fashion, the world was stunned.

She was listed to play a part in the Paralympics closing ceremony in 2012. Having skipped the dress rehearsal in order to keep her plans cloaked, the designer appeared at the televised closing ceremony on a float sporting an enormous black and white 'Climate Revolution' banner. Westwood was dressed in a slogan tee with the same words, sending a message to the world. She was then impossible to miss, along with her cause.

When the Dame was asked by reporters why people should buy the range, she replied with “They shouldn’t”. The collection was designed for political reasons, not for money. The SS12/13 collection included male models accessorizing with tote bags including the ‘Climate Revolution’ slogan made in Kenya through the United Nations International Trade Centre Ethical Fashion Program. Some models also appeared with injured features like black and blue bloody lips -- an effect to indicate that they were fighting for the revolution themselves.

Westwood has a personal philosophy for the climate revolution and shares her steps on how you can help the cause off the runway away from the magazines and cameras:

1. Money is a means to an end, not an end in itself

2. Quality v Quantity

3. Buy less, choose well, make it last (we don't want the 'latest thing' just for the sake of it.) "I never waste money; I spend it" – Oscar Wilde.

4. Prepare and cook your own food.

5. Cut out plastic

6. Inform yourselves

7. NGO’s (Non-Governmental Organisations): there are thousands, follow one in particular and give your support. You will learn a lot. You will know if we've blown it or not.

8. Consider the responsibility of not having children.

9.Take an active part in the Revolution as it starts to build.

10. Engage in art and culture.

D.Evans

References:

https://www.good.is/articles/vivienne-westwood-calls-for-a-climate-revolution-but-is-the-fashion-industry-listening

http://www.climatechangenews.com/2012/09/17/vivienne-westwood-calls-for-a-climate-revolution/

THE BOLDEST FASHION STATEMENTS IN PROTEST HISTORY: A SERIES: PETA'S ANTI-FUR MODELS 1994

Whether we accept it or not, what we choose to buy and wear speaks a lot about who we are on the inside. As many of you hopefully know, the fashion industry has become more involved in activism throughout recent runways and shows. For lots of us, it is easier to buy cheap new garments without thinking of any downside. Through these purchases, we are sending a message of support to big fast-fashion, unsustainable, money orientated companies.

IMAGE: FUR COMMISSION USA

Well, praise the politics and open opinions of this society. Some designers and labels are out there, taking a stand against the irresponsible fashion industry model and reminding us why it’s so important to put our hard-earned money towards the positive side of the industry. Companies like PETA are not afraid to have tough conversations and extreme campaigns to highlight what they believe in. They tend to tackle the big world issues and launch the controversial ads, lines and collaborations that are not even in their best interests. It is becoming clearer that statements on and off the runways are getting the most attention, so to the brands who are doing it to get their name out there, not cool. But to those who have been supporting the good for years and truly believe in what they’re creating is for the greater good, I absolutely appreciate your work and bravery.

Compiling the most influential, extreme and boldest fashion protest statements in history has been a challenge but here are some of the best. I hope this written series changes the way you think of fast, cheap, cruel impulse buys.

PETA'S ANTI-FUR MODELS 1994

IMAGE: HUFFINGTON POST

Sometimes, to make a statement, you need to recruit a few of the era's top models and pose in no clothes at all. PETA revolutionized the 90s protest when the organization began to release their anti-fur campaigns full of completely naked models. The ad wrote 'We'd rather go naked than wear fur'. Supermodels like Naomi Campbell, Chrissy Turlington, Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford and Elle McPherson were all photographed under the slogan stripped down to take a stand alongside PETA. This became one of the most iconic and influential advertisement of the 90s.

This was all coming off a fur epidemic, where all through the past decades, most notably the 80s, fur was the ‘it’ item and the statement piece of women’s wardrobes. PETA’s anti-fur campaigns weren’t the first of their efforts to stop humanity and the fashion industry to stop the use of fur. PETA stands for People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals and was founded in the 80s where the founders would organize small protests starting in the US. Before their clever campaigns, PETA and its affiliates worldwide gained a reputation for controversially bizarre street theatre. In 1992, activists for PETA were known to throw paint at people who were wearing fur and at one stage a giant ‘sheep’ followed the Australian Prime Minister at the time around to protest the cruelty in our wool industry.

PETA's ‘We’d rather go naked than wear fur’ campaign was incredibly powerful, whilst still many ladies sadly continued to strip the lives of animals to remain in the fashion game, many high-profile brands like Armani committed to going fur-free and have continued doing so to this day. Shortly after, a survey went out around America and it was said that after only one in five women still owned a fur coat.

D.Evans

References:

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/cifamerica/2010/nov/03/peta-cruelty-to-animals

https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1994/04/01/the-year-the-fur-flew/3b8ff4a7-b665-419b-882f-6e103b4fe04c/?noredirect=on&utm_term=.0d01bfb8258d